Major Clephane's Uniform Tailoring, Sep. 1757

Shortly after the regiment arrived in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Major Clephane placed an order for the making of, what appears to be a regimental jacket. Eighteenth-century regimental clothing Tailor Henry Cooke described, that two and one-half yards of cloth would fit a man with a 42-inch chest, indicating the major was probably small in his bodily frame and overall stature. 

It would appear that Andrew Butler was Major Clephane’s personal tailor; perhaps even a local merchant. Additionally, it was quite common each company would also have a trained tailor to make and repair uniforms for the sergeants and other ranks in the field as required.  We discovered, from occupations listed while at Chelsea Hospital, the 78th Regiment had a number of men who were tailors in the civilian sector.

Halifax, 22d. Sep't. 1757

Major Clephanes

B.o.S of Alexander Mackenzie

2 ½ yards Superfine scarlet Cloth	@ 23	£2        17        6
3/16 yard Superfine white Cloth	@ 24	-           3          6
4 yards best white shalloon	@ 3/	-           12        -
¾ yard Buckram	@ 14	-           0          10 ½
3 skeins Twist, 4 ditto Silk	@ 6d each	-           3          6
3 ½ oz. Thread	@ 5d	-           1          5 ½
2 ½ yards Dimity	@ ¼	-           3          5 ¼
¾ linen	@ ⅛	-           1          3
del’d his own Taylor:	[Total]	£4        4          6 ¼
26th,     2 ½ yards Scarlet shag	@ 10	£1        5          -
¾ yard Superfine scarlet cloth	@ 23	-           17        6
3 yards Dimity	@ ¼	-           4          1 ½
4 Skeins Silk & Twist	@ 6d each	-           2          0
2 oz. Th’d, del’d And’w Butler	@ 5d	-           0          10
	[Total]	£2        9          5 ½
Oct 1st, 1 yard white shalloon, del’d his own Taylor		-           3          -
Oct 3d, 1 yard Dimity, del’d  And’w Butler		-           1          4 ½
½ yard Linen, del’d his own Taylor	@ ¼	-           0          8
	[Total]	£6        19        0 ¼

Fabric Notes:

- Superfine scarlet cloth:  a superior, finer cloth, used to make officers uniform jackets.

- Superfine white cloth:  used for the jacket’s facings (cuffs, lapels, etc).

- Shalloon:  a lightweight twilled fabric of wool or worsted used chiefly for coat linings.  

- Buckram:  a coarse material, linen or cotton, used for stiffening clothes. 

- Skein:  a unit of yarn.

- Silk:  used for sewing.  The “twist” was possibly the lace or piping used around buttonholes, cuffs, collars, lapels, etc.

- Dimity:  a strong cotton corded fabric.

Sources:

Major Clephane's Bill of Sale of Alexander Mackenzie, Sep. 1757. Elizabeth Rose Family Papers. NRS, GD125-22-17, p. 1.

Chapman, Earl J. "Bill of Sale." E-Mail letter to Jeffrey Campbell dated 26 July 2017. 

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.