Orders Providing Clothing and to Inspect Uniform Patterns, 1757

From their London workshop in 1757, two clothiers meticulously inspect neck scarf patterns designed for the civilian sector. While stationed in Quebec through 1763, Colonel Fraser's men of the 78th Regiment of Foot typically received their annual clothing allotment in April of each year, with the exception of 1760, which was hijacked by the French Frigate, Le Machault, en route from Halifax to Quebec. (Jeffrey Campbell, London Clothiers, 2024. Artist's rendition created with Perchance AI Image Generator)

 

Inspecting Uniform Patterns

War Office 13th January 1757

Sir,

His Majesty having been pleased to order Two Highland Battallions of Foot, to be forthwith Raised, under the Command of Lt. Col. Montgomery & Lt. Col. Fraser each Battallion to Consist of 40 Serjeants, 40 Corporals, 20 Drummers, and 1000 Effective private Men, besides Commission Officers; And as the Cloathing, & Accoutrements, &c for the said Battallions are to be immediately provided, I am Commanded to Signify to you, It is His Majesty's Pleasure, that you do forthwith Summon a Board of General Officers to Inspect the Patterns which shall be Exhibited, and do every thing else which shall be necessary, that the said Cloathing and Accoutrements &c may be immediately provided.

I am Sir

Your most obedient

humble Servant

Barrington

Copy

Robert Ince Esqr.

Source:

War Office Records: Out Letters: Secretary at War. General Letters, Dec. 1756-Apr. 1757. LAC, W.O. 4, vol. 53 (Selections).

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2024.

Initial Outfitting of Kilts in 1757

An authorized recruiting depot is located in Inverness, Scotland, to collect new recruits for Colonel Fraser's battalion of Highlanders; the other two locations around the country are Fort William and Dunkeld. During the enlistment process, recruits met with a recruiting officer and had the Articles of War and Oath of Allegiance to the King read to them. (Jeffrey Campbell, For Want of Tartan, 2024. Artist's rendition created with Perchance AI Image Generator)

Initial Outfitting of Kilts in 1757

Found among the archival paperwork belonging to Major Clephane of Colonel Fraser's 78th Regiment are 90 payroll accounting receipts for men serving under the major. Each accounting receipt contains two pages, one denoting income and one for expenditures, with the majority of the receipts covering the period of initial attestation through April 24, 1758 (about one year), closing out the first known payroll reporting period. This was an opportunity for paymasters to consolidate all expenses and bring their accounts up-to-date. The receipts consulted include those of the NCOs and private soldiers; unfortunately, we did not locate receipts for officers' accounts. 

The purpose of this analysis is to determine the number of soldiers in Major Clephane's Company who were charged for and received kilts and belts during their initial outfitting and the cost of each item. While a replacement plaid of 12 yards of cloth was valued at 12–18 shillings [John Calcraft, Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot (c. 1757)], depending on rank, one might conclude a kilt of about 4 yards of cloth would be valued at 4–6 shillings. However, our results indicate the men paid approximately one shilling for a kilt. And while the reason for the disparity in pricing is not fully understood, perhaps this cloth was previously paid for and on loan until a newer government supply became available. Of course, it might simply be a bulk government discount, too.

British monetary system:
Pound (£) - From the Latin word 'libra', meaning 'pound.'
Shillings (s) - 20 shillings in one pound.
Pence (d) - 12 pennies or 'pence' in one shilling; 240 pence in one pound.

Accounting Receipts

Item: 1 Kilt Belt
Issued: Date of attestation – Apr. 24, 1758
Cost: 10d
Total accounts: 6

Item: 1 Kilt & Small Belt
Issued: Date of attestation – Apr. 24, 1758
Cost: 1s 4d
Total accounts: 60 + 1 (This one acct. is dated Dec. 25, 1757 – Apr. 24, 1758).

Item: 1 Kilt & 1 Kilt Belt
Issued: Date of attestation – Apr. 24, 1758
Cost: 1s 4d
Total accounts: 1

Item: 1 Kilt & Pistle Belt
Issued: Date of attestation – Apr. 24, 1758
Cost: 1s 4d
Total accounts: 13

The pistle [sic] belt and small/kilt belt were probably one in the same item.

Item: 1 Kilt, Turn Key & Screw, 1 Brush & Wire
Issued: Dec. 24, 1757 – Apr. 24, 1758
Cost: 1s 7d. 
Total accounts: 1

This account also received leg hose from the Compy Store (presumably at Halifax) at 3d. The turn key, screw, brush, and wire were used to clean the arms and were separately valued in other accounts at 7d.

No kilt or belt issued:
Issued: Dec. 24, 1757 – Apr. 24, 1758: 4 accounts
Issued: Dec. 25, 1757 – Apr. 24, 1758: 1 account
Issued: Attestation – Apr. 24, 1758: 3 accounts

Source:
Account for the wages of Clephane’s company, detailing the number of troops of each rank, 16-23 May 1757. TNA, GD125/Box 22/9 (35).

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2024.

In Favor of the Government Sett

An 18th-century civilian clothier in London meticulously examines a selection of luxurious fabrics on a well-lit table in his bustling workshop. Dressed in a simple yet elegant ensemble of the era, the middle-aged man has a pair of spectacles perched on his nose to aid in his scrutiny. The table is adorned with bolts of velvet, silk, and fine wool in an array of rich colors, reflecting the high quality of his trade of many years. (Jeffrey Campbell, An Ounce of Thread, 2024. Artist's rendition created with Perchance AI Image Generator)

In Favor of the Government Sett

Over the years, there have been countless thoughts expressed regarding the specific sett worn as part of the uniform by Lieutenant Colonel Fraser’s men in North America while participating in the war, from 1757 to 1763. And the simple explanation for this is that, although the War Office, on 13 January 1757, ordered a General Board of Officers to inspect the clothing patterns to be worn, documentation outlining the results of any inspection occurring has never been uncovered. 

During the early formation of the battalion, we know of two separate occasions when the men were officially reviewed. The first inspection took place at Glasgow, Scotland, on 29 April 1757, by the Hon. Charles Hope-Weir, Muster Master-General of North Britain [Scots Magazine, Vol. XIX, p.259], and a second inspection occurred a few days later on 4 May, by Lieutenant Colonel Richard Webb and Lieutenant-Colonel Richard Worge [Beauclerk to Barrington, 6 May 1757, W.O. 1/613, p.115]. Additionally, the battalion was most likely reviewed at the Royal Military Barracks, Dublin, Ireland (now Collins Barracks), by the Earl of Rothes, on their march to Cork Harbour for embarkation, as it is documented he met with Colonel Montgomery's First Highland Battalion on 16 May 1757.

Our Findings

The following two contemporary newspaper extracts discuss Lord Loudoun's desire to reinforce his army in North America with an additional 5,000 troops. Formerly of the 64th Foot, Loudoun (Colonel John Campbell) was serving as commander in chief at the time.

Jackson's Oxford Journal

Saturday, November 27, 1756. Numb. 187.

London.

It is said that Lord Loudoun has desired a Reinforcement of 5000 Men at least, whom he recommends to be accoutred in the manner of the Highland Regiment.

It should be noted, originally titled Crawford's Highlanders or the Highland Regiment, the 42nd (Royal Highland) Regiment of Foot, numbered 43rd in the line, in 1748, then renumbered 42nd Foot in 1751, and was one of the first three Highland Regiments to fight in North America.

The Sussex Weekly Advertiser, or, Lewes Journal

Monday, November 29, 1756. No. 544.

London. Nov. 23.

The last Express from Lord Loudon contains no request of being Recalled, but he therein desires a Reinforcement of 5000 Men at least, which he recommends to be raised in the Highlands of Scotland, and to be accoutred in their Manner, the English Marching Regiments not being so capable of bearing the Fatigue of frequent Journeys in that Country; he also desires a Draught from the Train of Artillery, with some small travelling Cannon; which Request, we hear, is ordered to be complied with forthwith.

Separately, on 25 August 1757, Lieutenant Colonel Fraser, in a letter penned from Halifax Harbour to Lord Loudoun wrote: "...This much I will say for the Regt. that it is in every respect a Highland one & as we have the honor of wearing the livery of your Lords highland Regt. I have no doubt we shall resemble them in more respects when we are disciplined..." [LO 4310, Huntington Library, San Marino, CA.]

Wearing a Dark-coloured Plaid

As the only Highland regiment garrisoned in Halifax, Nova Scotia, in September 1757, were the men of Colonel Fraser's Regiment, from the journal of Captain John Knox, we find the following entry. 

21 September 1757: "...The reinforcement of Highlanders, mentioned before to have arrived lately at Halifax, consisted of two new-raised regiments; an unlucky accident lately happened to one of their private men, of which the following are particulars; a soldier of another regiment, who was a centinel detached from an advanced guard, seeing a man come out of the wood, with his hair hanging loose, and wrapped in a dark-coloured plaid, he challenged him repeatedly, and receiving no answer (the weather being hazy) he fired at him and killed him."  [The Publications of the Champlain Society: The Journal of Captain John Knox, Volume 1, pp.73-74]. 

Note: At 4 minutes, 16 seconds past 11 p.m. on the evening of September 20, the Moon entered the First Quarter phase, a time when present-day astronomers estimate it is only 1/11 bright as a full Moon. [Edinburgh Almanack For the Year M.DCC.LVII, Edinburgh, 1757, p.13].

Lord Beauclerk's Letters

We've uncovered two important letters pertaining to the plaids issued and worn by Lieutenant Colonels Fraser and Montgomery's men in 1757. Writing from Edinburgh to Lord Barrington of the War Office in London, Lord Beauclerk pens several key notes.

In this first letter, Beauclerk's admittance of contact with the clothing contractors strongly implies the making of clothes were an undertaking of the government, and supervised by Beauclerk himself. 

22 March 1757: "I wish the Cloaths and Arms from London, and the Plaid &c. making in this Country may be ready in time, which last I apprehend will be rather late [to Glasgow], tho' the Contractors promise all possible diligence." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 22 March 1757. Letter book of Lord George Beauclerk as Commander-in-Chief in Scotland, being copies of letters concerning military and administrative affairs in Scotland of Beuaclerk, the Viscount Barrington, the Earl of Holdernesse, the Earl of Ligonier, and others. National Library Scotland, p.47-48].

In Beauclerk's second letter, it is discussed that the two Highland battalions are still in need of 400 plaids, which are expected to arrive any day [to Glasgow] from Stirling. The two battalions are awaiting their final shipment of (most likely) government tartan.

19 April 1757: "By a Letter I this day received from Lieut Colonel Webb, there are about 90 of the best Men of each of the Highland Battalion who cannot arrive at Glasgow before the 23d Inst. occasioned as is said, by their having been in the Western Isles where they could not receive orders so as to be able to join sooner. This will retard the march of the First Battalion till the 25th following; especially as the same Letter bears that there are also wanting 400 Plaids which daily expected from Stirling." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 19 April 1757. TNA, W.O. 1/613, p.83-85].

In Summary

As historians, whichever side of the fence you may be on, our independent investigation into these key pieces of evidence brought together for the first time under one umbrella strongly suggests the wearing of the government sett. Considering the totality of the evidence, we believe Colonel Fraser and his men wore the same livery (jacket, bonnet, waistcoat, and tartan) as not only Loudoun's original 64th Foot, but the 42nd and 77th Regiments as well.

And while some historians are in favor of the patterns worn by the 42nd Regiment, others are hoping paperwork will one day appear in support Colonel Fraser's men wearing a red tartan. However, to date, we have not been able to locate any credible evidence to corroborate the latter.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2022.

Last updated 27 January 2023.

Over 900 Reinforcements Arrive in North America in 1758

An 18th-century British war ship, proudly flying the Union Jack, as it is moored in the bustling harbor of Greenock, Scotland. The year is 1758, and the ship's towering wooden masts, intricate rigging, and billowing sails are a testament to the era's maritime prowess. The sun casts a warm glow over the scene, highlighting the ship's meticulously maintained hull as it reflects the rippling waters of the Firth of Clyde. On the pier, a flurry of activity unfolds: sailors in their traditional attire of white breeches and blue jackets scurry about, securing ropes and hoisting cargo onto the ship. Soldiers in red coats stand at attention, their muskets slung over their shoulders, ready to embark for their mission to North America. (Jeffrey Campbell, Underway, 2024. Artist's rendition created with Perchance AI Image Generator)

Reinforcements for North America in 1758

While recruiting for Colonel Fraser's original 10 companies was complete by April 1757, three additional companies consisting of about 300 men were authorized formation for service three months later, in July. These augments (including over 600 men from the 42nd and 77th Foot) embarked on 16 November for their two-month voyage to North America. 

It's interesting to note any children that may have accompanied their family overseas were not separately accounted for, as recorded on other regimental returns.

Letter of Lord Barrington to Henry Fox, Paymaster [1]

War Office 21 July 1757

Sir

His Majesty having thought fit to add thee comps. to each of the Highland Corps mentioned in the Margin hereof each Company to consist of Four Serjeants four Corporals two Drummers & one hundred Effective Private Men besides Commission Officers their Pay to commence from the 25 Of April 1757 and to allow £3 p man Levy Money I have the Honour to acquaint you therewith that you may be pleased to lay a Memorial before the Rt. Honble the Lords Commrs. of His Majesty's Treasury for the Money wanting for this Service.

I am

Sir  &c

Barrington

[Margin entries]

Lord John Murrays

Lt. Col. Montgomery 

Lt. Col. Fraser 

Letter of John Cleveland, Esq. [2]

Navy Office 26 Novr. 1757

Sir, 

Mr. Rowland who we appointed to act as agent for the Transports at Greenock, being returned from thence, and acquainted us that the Embarkation of the Nine Additional Companies was compleated at that place the 16th inst. And he having made us a Return of the said Embarkation, we send you on the otherside a copy thereof, for the information of the Right Honble the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty and are

Sir

Your very humble Servants

Tho. Slade; G. Adams; John Cleveland Esqr.; Rich'd [...]; Tm Brett

Embarkation of Troops

A return of the number of men and women embarked at Greenock [Scotland] of the nine additional companies of Highlanders.

L:r John Murrays

Captains: 3

Lieutenants: 4

Ensigns: 2

Serjeants: 12

Corporals: 12

Drummers: 6

Private: 258

Servants: 9

Women: 18

Total: 324

Col: Montgomerys

Captains: 3

Lieutenants: 5

Ensigns: 1

Serjeants: 12

Corporals: 12

Drummers: 6

Private: 269

Servants: 9

Women: 18

Total: 335

Col: Fraziers

Captains: 3

Lieutenants: 6

Ensigns: 3

Serjeants: 9

Corporals: 10

Drummers: 4

Private: 245

Servants: 9

Women: 18

Total: 307

Letter of Loudoun to Barrington [3]

New York 16:th February 1758

My Lord,

By the Packet, which arrived in January, I had the honor to receive several duplicates of Letters from your Lordship, and a Letter with Orders, to send home Lord Charles Hay, which I forwarded to Major General Hopson along with the Letters to His Lordship.

I send your Lordship the returns of the Troops, enclosed, and likewise the returns of the drafts that came from Europe, amounting to 1559; and 101. Prisoners from France; part of the recruits from Germany, and some of last years drafts from Ireland, who had been taken at Sea and carried to France.

Of this years drafts I have discharged 22, on a Certificate, I send enclosed. No man with a rupture can serve here; for, whenever they March or are Employed in carrying of wood, or making Entrenchments in the Summer, it encreases it immediately to such a Degree, as to make entirely unserviceable ever after. Those I have returned with the Transports.

From your Lordships Letters, I see that it was expected, that the cloathing, the drafts brought with them, should serve till next cloathing; but as many of them, when they arrived, were almost naked; many having not received cloathing since September 1756, and a great number cloathed at Christmas 1756, as will appear from the enclosed return of them, made out from the returns, received from the officers of the different Corps who came along with them, and the returns of the Regiments that received them, who complain'd greatly of the cloathing of many of the men; and as we never can cloath in this Country, till the end of November and often in December; I found on an Examination, that it was absolutely necessary to cloath a great many of them; for which reason I have order'd, that all those men, that have received no cloathing since the 1st of March 1757, should be cloathed, which in the whole amounts to 578; as without that Order, those men would have been naked.

As this is the case, I hope your Lordship will think it reasonable, that the Regiments here, should not have the offreckonings stopped, for that number we have been obliged to new cloath with this years cloathing; for otherwise, that number of the Troops here, will be without cloaths next year, as the Soldiers cloaths are much worse in this Country at the end of a campaign, than they are in Europe; which happens, from their never having any straw after they march into the back Country, but are obliged to lay on boards & twigs of Trees, which wears out their cloathing immediately.

I have return'd the officers that came with the drafts in the Transports that brought out Lieut. Colonel Frazers Battalion, who by their Charter parties, were to remain on Pay till they returned to the River with the Convoy: there came no agent, neither with those nor with Lieut. Colonel Montgomerys Battalion; nor did I receive any directions about them. The ship which Admiral Holbourne sent here with Colonel Frazers Battalion, having got a Malignant Fever on board, was not able to proceed with those Transports; therefore Captain Darby, who came with the drafts, took the charge of them. The Admiral left it to me, to do with those Transports as I saw proper; but as I had no Orders, I thought it would be wrong to detain them.

Seven of the Transports that were sent to South Carolina, have absolutely refused their Discharge; as that was the case, I have order'd them here with the five companies of the Royal Americans now there, whom I have sent thither last Spring; as His Majesty has provided for the security of that Province, by sending a Battalion of a thousand men there.

I have likewise sent home with the Transports, forty two Invalides; part of them are from the Regiments that came last from Ireland, who brought over several unserviceable Men: I must beg, that as soon as those Men are received into Chelsea, I may be informed; as they must stand on Our returns, till that information arrives.

Enclosed, your Lordship has a List of the commissions I have signed.

As there were not Magazines at Halifase [sic, Halifax], capable to contain the whole of the Powder, I was obliged to leave part of it on board the Fleet; part of which they have carried back to England, which will make a further supply necessary.

As part of the light Field Train were lost at Fort William Henry, it would be of great use here, to have a Supply of the light brass 12 & 6 Pounders; as the Battery Train cannot be moved into this Country but by water, so that it comes to be of no use in the back Country, whereas we can always carry the light 12. Pounders.

I must beg leave, once more to mention, the Contingent Men, which are cut off from the Troops in this Service, which makes a great discontent among them, as they are allowed to all the other Troops in the Kings Service; and as the captains have no fund for the many contingencies that arise in this Country; they make very large contingent accounts, and those must contain Articles, that used to be bourne out of that Fund. I must beg that your Lordship will endeavor, to get the Contingent Men allowed.

I have mentioned, in my Letter to the Secretary of State, a proposal made by Lieut. Colonel Gage, in order to reduce the Expence the Rangers are now at, and in order to get, not only a cheaper but a more useful sett of Rangers, and one on whose Intelligence I may rely; I have so far agreed to it, as to allow him to raise the Regiment, and to chose, out of the Subalterns of the Troops, Officers for it, who remain on their Pay in the Regiment they now belong to, and to have their Pay made up, from the contingencies, to the rank they have in this New Regiment; but to take no Rank in the Army, by this commission, till the Kings Pleasure be known on this subject: nor will I look on those commissions as vacant, in the Regiment they belong to, till the King's Pleasure is known; which I beg you will communicate, as soon as His Majesty has signified it. Enclosed, I send your Lordship, Lieut. Gage's memorial to me.

I have advanced the money, for the cloathing and raising those men, on an obligation, from the Colonel to repay it, if the King thinks proper to accept of his Proposal.

I forgot to mention to your Lordship, that Lieut. Adam Williamson, lately promoted by me in His Majestys 22d Regiment of Foot, was Ensign in Lieut. Guise's Regiment: He is son to Lieut. Colonel Williamson, of the Royal Regiment of Artillery, is an Engineer in this Service, and stands strongly recommended to me by Lord Dupplin.

I am with the greatest Regard,

My Lord, your Lordships,

Most Obedient and Most

Humble Servant

Cover sheet:

The Earl of Loudoun

to Lord Barrington

Febry. 16th 1758

Duplicate

Sources:

1. War Office Records: Out Letters: Secretary at War. General Letters, Apr. 1757 - Oct. 1757. LAC, W.O. 4, 54 (Selections), p. 232.

2. National Maritime Museum: The Caird Library and Archive, London. ADM 354/157/205. John Cleveland served as Secretary to the Admiralty, 1751-1763; a further discussion regarding Colonel Fraser's original transport ships can be found here.

3. John Campbell, 4th Earl of Loudoun (1705-1782) Ms.L.unsigned to [William Wildman, 3rd] Viscount Barrington; New York, 16 Feb 1758. Houghton Library, Harvard University. John Campbell Loudoun Papers Concerning the Siege and Fall of Quebec, 1756-1784 (MS Can 64). Cambridge, MA. https://bit.ly/2WbDiMv. [Acc: 19 Aug. 2021].

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2021.

Major Clephane's Uniform Tailoring, Sep. 1757

Shortly after the regiment arrived in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Major Clephane placed an order for the making of, what appears to be a regimental jacket. Eighteenth-century regimental clothing Tailor Henry Cooke described, that two and one-half yards of cloth would fit a man with a 42-inch chest, indicating the major was probably small in his bodily frame and overall stature. 

It would appear that Andrew Butler was Major Clephane’s personal tailor; perhaps even a local merchant. Additionally, it was quite common each company would also have a trained tailor to make and repair uniforms for the sergeants and other ranks in the field as required.  We discovered, from occupations listed while at Chelsea Hospital, the 78th Regiment had a number of men who were tailors in the civilian sector.

Halifax, 22d. Sep't. 1757

Major Clephanes

B.o.S of Alexander Mackenzie

2 ½ yards Superfine scarlet Cloth	@ 23	£2        17        6
3/16 yard Superfine white Cloth	@ 24	-           3          6
4 yards best white shalloon	@ 3/	-           12        -
¾ yard Buckram	@ 14	-           0          10 ½
3 skeins Twist, 4 ditto Silk	@ 6d each	-           3          6
3 ½ oz. Thread	@ 5d	-           1          5 ½
2 ½ yards Dimity	@ ¼	-           3          5 ¼
¾ linen	@ ⅛	-           1          3
del’d his own Taylor:	[Total]	£4        4          6 ¼
26th,     2 ½ yards Scarlet shag	@ 10	£1        5          -
¾ yard Superfine scarlet cloth	@ 23	-           17        6
3 yards Dimity	@ ¼	-           4          1 ½
4 Skeins Silk & Twist	@ 6d each	-           2          0
2 oz. Th’d, del’d And’w Butler	@ 5d	-           0          10
	[Total]	£2        9          5 ½
Oct 1st, 1 yard white shalloon, del’d his own Taylor		-           3          -
Oct 3d, 1 yard Dimity, del’d  And’w Butler		-           1          4 ½
½ yard Linen, del’d his own Taylor	@ ¼	-           0          8
	[Total]	£6        19        0 ¼

Fabric Notes:

- Superfine scarlet cloth:  a superior, finer cloth, used to make officers uniform jackets.

- Superfine white cloth:  used for the jacket’s facings (cuffs, lapels, etc).

- Shalloon:  a lightweight twilled fabric of wool or worsted used chiefly for coat linings.  

- Buckram:  a coarse material, linen or cotton, used for stiffening clothes. 

- Skein:  a unit of yarn.

- Silk:  used for sewing.  The “twist” was possibly the lace or piping used around buttonholes, cuffs, collars, lapels, etc.

- Dimity:  a strong cotton corded fabric.

Sources:

Major Clephane's Bill of Sale of Alexander Mackenzie, Sep. 1757. Elizabeth Rose Family Papers. NRS, GD125-22-17, p. 1.

Chapman, Earl J. "Bill of Sale." E-Mail letter to Jeffrey Campbell dated 26 July 2017. 

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.

Clothing Suppliers to the Highland Regiments, 1757

In our discussion entitled, Clothing for the Highland Regiments, 1757, the main emphasis of that conversation is centered around identifying not only the specific clothing articles worn by the three Scottish Regiments sent to North America, but also the army clothier(s) responsible for procuring the different uniform components for the troops  And while it was discovered a gentleman named James Mann was contracted in 1759 to provide jackets to Colonel Fraser's Regiment, it is equally important to identify the suppliers for each of the additional uniform components, in order to get a better understanding of those involved with outfitting over 4000 soldiers for duty overseas.

William Sandeman
In a letter dated 21 January 1773, William Sandeman, a prominent linen manufacturer in Perth, Scotland, provided correspondence to the House of Commons indicating his operation at the height of the war consisted of 200 weaver looms, but by this time he was down to 30 in total. [Reports From Committees of the House of Commons. Vol. III].

Contingent upon the premise only half his machinery (100 looms) was in operation at the time of furnishing plaids to the 42d Foot, in 1757, with each loom averaging a daily production of just five yards of cloth his business may have produced 3500 yards weekly. This output would ensure a regiment of 1000 men could be clothed in under four weeks based on 12 yards per plaid. Evidence suggests a smaller amount of material may have been supplied (four & one-half yards) for a philabeg.

Hector Turnbull, William Sandeman's bleacher and business partner, was a brother to George Turnbull (ensign in the Scots Brigade in Holland), who served alongside then-Captain James Clephane, who was later gazetted major in Colonel Fraser's Regiment. And while direct evidence suggesting the colonel sought the clothing services of the Sandeman has not been uncovered, their production capabilities and contributions to the war efforts should not go unnoticed.

Clothing Suppliers

Lord John Murray's 42nd Regiment
1. Coats: shipped by Fisher & Pearse (1757); shipped by John Hankins (1759).
2. Shoes: shipped from Glasgow (1757); ordered by William Sandeman (1759).
3. Shoe buckles: shipped by Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck, London (1759).
4. Leg hose: shipped from Glasgow (1757); ordered by William Sandeman (1759).
5. Bonnets: shipped from Glasgow (1757); grenadier caps by Joseph Howell (1759).
6. Cockades
7. Plaids: provided by William Sandeman (1757).
8. Shirts: provided William Sandeman at Luncarty (1757).
9. Stockings
10. Garters
11. Kilting-belts

London army agents: John Calcraft (1757-58); Mr. Drummond* (1759-1763).

Colonel Archibald Montgomery's 77th Regiment
12. Coats

12a Silk sashes (1757).
13. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
14. Shoe buckles
15. Leg hose
16. Bonnets
17. Cockades
18. Plaids: plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
19. Shirts
20. Stockings
21. Garters: bought at Glasgow (1757).
22. Kilting-belts: soldiers [may have] provided their own during initial outfitting (1757).

22a Saint Andrew's Crosses (1757).

London army agent: John Calcraft (1757-1763); London clothing packer: Mr. [Thomas] Colborne, [Coleman-street] (1757).

Colonel Simon Fraser's 78th Regiment 
23. Coats: shipped by James Mann at Westminster (1759).
24. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
25. Shoe buckles
26. Leg hose
27. Bonnets
28. Cockades
29. Plaids: some plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
30. Shirts
31. Stockings
32. Garters
33. Kilting-belts

London army agent: George Ross (1757-1763).

Notes:

In a letter dated 12 July 1757, William Sandeman received an order for clothing the three additional companies of the 42nd Regiment of Foot. [John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57)].

*Hon. Henry Drummond, of Charing Cross, London, and The Grange, Hants became army agent in 1759 for the 42d and 46th Foot (commanded by his Murray relatives). In 1765 he entered into a partnership with Richard Cox (Cox & Co.) and, the firm having acquired a number of John Calcraft's agencies, by 1771 had 18 regiments on their books. [Namier & Brooke. The House of Commons, 1754-1790, Vol. 1].

On 29 March 1766, the British Government reimbursed Colonel Fraser £1025.2.6 to replace the clothing of the 78th Battalion of Foot, which was taken on 16 May 1760 by Le Machault, a French hired frigate. [Journals of the House of Commons. Vol. 31].

Sources:

1. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

Fisher & Pearse, Blackwell Hall factors, operated shop in Lothbury, Westminster, England. About June 1757 they shipped over 1000 coats, and various other items including thread, thimbles, corporal’s & piper’s knots, red feathers, etc., to Lord John Murray’s Regiment in North America. About April 1759 John Hawkins [sic: Hankins] was paid for cloth for the regimentals of the officers of the 13 companies £182.14.0, and Barrett & Co. for the lace £213.7.4; in November 1759, Edward Smith of Ludgate Hill, London, provided buff slings for the seven additional companies at a cost of £57.15.0. The package was insured for £500.0.0 and shipped for New York on board the Neptune transport, commanded by Captain Rose. [Cox & King's, Cox & Kings records 1686-1965. Lloyds Banking Group Archives (London). GB 386 A/56. "42nd Regiment Account Book, 1758-1767," Folio 50, p. 100. https://bit.ly/3CtLAyL].

2. Ibid., William Sandeman was paid £182.6.0 for 1200 pairs of shoes. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

3. Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck was paid £56.13.0 on 23 April 1759 for buckles and combs for the seven new companies. He was a tradesman and London clockmaker who introduced a brass alloy for imitation gold jewelry in 1732. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

4. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

5. "General Murray to Lt. John Grahme, Quartermaster, 42d Foot: Tartan, bonnets, and shoes to ship from Glasgow." 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); Grenadier caps: "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

7. See Note 1.

8. "Letter to Mr. William Sandeman merchant at Perth [Scotland], with order for cloathing the 3 additional companies." 12 July 1757. Ibid.

12. Purchased 20 silk sashes (presumably for the 20 initial lieutenants). TNA, WO 34/75, p.114.

13. “From Glasgow: An order was received from London, to provide 2400 pairs of shoes and also Shoulder-Belts for the two Highland Regiments now raising.” The Public Advertiser, 3 February 1757.

14. Agent John Calcraft writes: “Regimental buckles [for Colonel Montgomery’s 77th Foot] are got.” Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot, c. 1757. James Grant of Ballindalloch papers, 1740-1819, Library of Congress, Washington, DC.

18. 22 March 1757: "I wish the Cloaths and Arms from London, and the Plaid &c. making in this Country may be ready in time, which last I apprehend will be rather late [to Glasgow], tho' the Contractors promise all possible diligence." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 22 March 1757]. 

In Beauclerk's second letter dated 19 April 1757, he discussed with Barrington that the two Highland battalions are still in need of 400 plaids, which are "daily expected [to Glasgow] from Stirling." The two battalions are awaiting their final shipment of (most likely) government tartan. Letter book of Lord George Beauclerk as Commander-in-Chief in Scotland, being copies of letters concerning military and administrative affairs in Scotland of Beauclerk, the Viscount Barrington, the Earl of Holdernesse, the Earl of Ligonier, and others. National Library Scotland, p.47-48]. 

21. Ibid., “Regimental garters to be bought at Glasgow.” 

22. Ibid., “Belts for kelting [sic, kilting] men provide.”

22a An October 1757 entry in the regimental purchase ledger indicates a payment of £32.0.0 for 40 Saint Andrew's Crosses (presumably for the 40 initial officers). TNA, WO 34/75, p.114.

23. Colonel Fraser’s coats (including lacing) was coordinated by James Mann, Woolen-draper, Strand, Westminster, UK. “Letter from William Fauquier to Lt.-Gen. Robt. Napier.” 18 December 1759. TNA, Clothing Board [Letters], WO 7/26.

24. See Note 13.

29. See Note 18.

Last updated 13 September 2023.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.

Clothing for the Highland Regiments, 1757

The official tartan worn by the 78th Foot remains a mystery; however, many historians believe it was the Black Watch plaid, same as the 42d Foot. It is suspected this was also the tartan worn by Colonel Montgomery's 77th Foot, and researchers conclude any striking changes by Colonel Fraser would have probably been noted. Newly discovered evidence in the form of a letter penned by Colonel Fraser strongly suggests his men also wore the government plaid.

Colonel Fraser's army agent, George Ross, was most likely responsible for procuring uniforms for the 78th Foot [then - the Second Highland Battalion] on the colonel's behalf. Typically, the agent was responsible for handling the  administrative and financial matters, including ordering uniforms through a hired army clothier, who would employ the various trades (weavers, tailors, cordwainers, lace and button makers, etc.) to fulfill contracts and ship goods. As there were numerous army clothiers supplying the regiments, identifying the specific clothier used might assist in locating the exact cloth Colonel Fraser and his men would have worn.

Army Clothiers
Two known army clothiers during the war were James Mann (St. Martin in the Fields), brother to Galfridus Mann (d. 1756 - who originally inherited the business from his father, Robert), and William Wilson (The Strand), both of Westminster, UK. Coincidentally, George Ross also maintained an office in that city on Conduit Street, along with other prominent army agents, including John Calcraft. Following the death of Galfridus Mann, it is strongly suspected his brother James petitioned the Earl of Loudoun to maintain current company army clothing contracts. In a letter dated 7 Jan. 1757, John Calcraft, agent for both the 42d and 77th Foot, tells Loudoun: "...Now my Lord let me tell you Mr. Mann is dead which you will I suppose hear from his Brother & receive also a sollicitation [sic] to be continued clothier - you will too receive a letter from Fisher and many others on the same subject."

Note:
John Calcraft (1726-1772) operated an army agency in Westminster, England, handling the administrative and financial affairs of numerous regiments. His agency appears to have transferred to Thomas Fisher about 1761. [LAC, John Calcraft fonds description; Microfilm A-1101].

1759 Kent City Directory, Westminster:
Fisher & Pearse: Blackwelhall-factors, Lothbury.
James Mann: Woollen-draper, near Durham-Yard, Strand.
William Willson: Woollen-draper, Strand.

Army Clothiers Petition
The following letter is a petition of clothiers to the army asking for payment of 'off-reckonings' and complaining about backwardness in payments.

     To the Right Honourable The Lords Commissioners of his Majestys Treasury. The Humble Memorial of the Clothiers to his Majestys Army - Shewith:

     That throughout the whole Course of the present War, your Memorialists have been greatly distress'd by the Backwardness in payment of Off Reckonings, at times when Money could not be borrowed on any Security, the price of Labour near double, and Materials 10p Cent: higher, than they had been at breaking out of the War.

      That the same Circumstances of Distress in many Respects still continue, And your Memorialists have at this time the Clothing of the whole Army to put in hand; which it is really out of their power to do till they shall be enabled by payment of some Off Reckonings, no payment having been made since April last and that, only till June 1761.

     Your Memorialists therefore humbly prays your Lordships to take their Case into Consideration and to order payment of a years Off Reckonings to 24 June 1762.

[signed]
Fisher & Pearse
Jno. Hankins
Wm. Wilson
James Mann

Cover sheet:
To the Right Hon'ble
The Lords Commissioners of
His Majestys Treasury
The Humble Petition of
the Clothiers to the Army

7th Jany. 1763
Read 1 Mar. 1763

Letters of the Clothing Board
London, 10 December 1759
Sir,
Mr. Ross agent to Col. Fraser's Battalion having represented to His Excellency Field Marshal Lord Viscot. Ligonier, that there having been no Lace last year upon the clothing of the said Battalion, and that there is not Time at present for making the Quantity requisets to lace the cloaths, according to the Directions of the General Officers of the Clothing, His Lordsh. orders me to acquaint you, that he has consented to that Battalion's Cloathing being made up (for this Time only) without Lace, with which I am to desire you will be pleas'd to acquaint the Cloathing Board.

I am
Sir
your most obedient
humble servant
[signed] Robt. Napier Adjt. Genl.

To Wm. Fauquier Esqr.

Note: William Fauquier replied to Robert Napier eight days later with the following below response.

Comptrollers Office, Horse Guards, 18 Dec. 1759

Sir,
I am order'd by the Cloathing Board held here today, to acquaint you, that as they apprehend the case of want of time to lace Col. Fraser's Battalion, has been misrepresented to his Excellency Field Marshal Lord Viscot. Ligonier; and Lord John Murray's Patterns, which were under the same circumstances, and therefore postpon'd at the last Board, were this day produc'd properly laced and lapelld; and Mr. Mann the clothier having engag'd to the Board, that Col. Fraser's shall be laced and lapell'd in time; They desire you will represent to his Lordshp., that as the Reason for not complying with the general order is thereby removed, They imagine his Lordshp. will think it proper that they should see His Majesty's orders comply'd with; and have order'd the Patterns of cloathing properly laced & lapell'd to be exhibited at another Board to be held on Monday next. I am with the greatest Respect,

Sir
your most obedient
humble servant
[signed] Wm. Fauquier

To Lieut. Genl. Napier.

Note: It can now be definitively stated that James Mann was, in fact the official clothier for Colonel Fraser's Regiment, at least during the first few years of the war. Additionally, in the original letter of 18 December, "want of time" is underlined.

[Clothing; TNA, WO 7/26].

Early Scottish Manufacturing

The British Linen Company was established in Edinburgh by royal charter in 1746. The Company was empowered to 'carry on the Linen Manufactory in all its branches' and was granted limited liability. The word 'British' in its title was an attempt to deflect the suspicion aroused by all things Scottish, after the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745. The Company's key promoters were the 3rd Duke of Argyll; Lord Milton; the Earl of Panmure; and George Middleton, a London banker.

As the production of Scottish manufacturing grew slowly in the 1730s, the commercial output of linen doubled from an annual average of 3.5 million yards in 1728-32 to 7.8 million yards by 1748-52. The British Linen Company's prospects brightened in the mid-1750s as war promised to disrupt German competition, and internal correspondence indicates an eagerness to secure clothing contracts with Agent George Ross, as he represented a number of British regiments at the time. 

10 April 1755

To William Tod, London

"My Lord Milton desires you would wait on Mr. George Ross who is agent for the Earl of Home's and sundry other regiments and Make Lord Milton's compliments to him and let him know that if proper samples were fixed upon 'tis believed this Company could supply most of the regiments [at least in time] with their shirting linens and that if Mr. Ross thought it fit a trial might be made of supplying Lord Home's regiment which is now in Scotland & if that pleased others might be contracted for hereafter. And likewise the Company could engage to supply them with their linen for splatterdashes."

Mr. Tod was a sales agent for the British Linen Company operating from an office in London. Although it is unclear if he was successful signing George Ross to contract for clothing any of his regiments, including the 78th Foot, the amount of cloth needed to outfit a large army in such a short period of time (over 10 miles of material) would have definitely required the services of a company with considerable output capabilities.

William Sandeman
William Sandeman, a leading Perthshire linen and later cotton manufacturer is documented as having supplied tartan to Murray's 42d Foot as early as 1759. In a January 1773 letter to the House of Commons, remarking on the decline of linen production following the war, he states: "...some years ago Two Hundred Weaver Loom [were] employed in the Winter Time, and this Winter they have hardly Thirty Looms at work." It seems Sandeman's operations during the war efforts were more than adequate to outfit a regiment with plaid in as little as about three weeks, assuming each loom's production of five to eight yards of cloth daily remained consistent. However, documentation has yet to be discovered supporting whether or not Sandeman also supplied cloth to Colonels Fraser and Montgomery's Regiments.

Clothing for a Highland Regiment

From the document entitled, A State of Clothing for a Highland Regiment at first raising, 1757. 

For each man, 1st year:

- 1 Coat

- 1 Waistcoat

- 1 Plaid

- 1 Bonnet

- 2 Shirts

- 2 Stocks

- 2 Pairs shoes

- 4 Pairs hose

For each man, 2d year:

- 1 Coat

- 1 Bonnet

- 1 Shirt

- 1 Stock

- 2 Pairs shoes

- 2 Pair hose

N.B. The plaid to last two years, the Shoes & hose to be deliver'd half yearly, Viz, one pair of Shoes & two pairs hose in June, and one pair Shoes wth. the other two pairs hose in December. The old Coat makes the vestcoat after the first cloathing.

From the document entitled, Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot, c. 1757. 

For a Serjeant:

- A Plaid of good tartan Cloth to be delivered once in two years at 1s/6d p. yard

- A Short Coat of Red Cloth every year

- A Waistcoat made out of the coat of preceding year

- A Bonnet every year at 1/2 a piece

- A good Shirt and Stock once a year

- A Pair of Short Hose every 3 Months at 1/5 p. pc

- A Pair of Shoes at 3/4 every 6 Months or money

For a Drummer:

- A Plaid of good Tartan Cloth once in two years containing 12 yards at 1s /p yard

- A Short Coat of good Cloth every year

- A Waistcoat made out of the Coat of the preceding yr

- A Bonnet every Year at 9d apiece

- A good Shirt and Stock once a year

- A pair of Short Hose every 3 Months ¾ yd. each at 10d p yard

- A pair of Shoes every 6 Months

- A belt and Sling once a year if wanted

For a private Soldr: as a Drummer:

Memoranda for Coll. Montgomery

- One of the Selvages to be Twiled

- Prices to be like Lord John Murray's

- Commission to Scott 2½ p cent

- Regimental buckles are got
- Regimental Garters to be bought at Glasgow

- Belts for Kelting Men provide

- Plaids, Bonnets, and Hose provided for the officers and charged to Paymaster

42d Foot
Lieutenant John Robertson, 42d Foot, gazetted 21 July 1758, paid James Scott, merchant in Edinburgh, for the following goods prior to his departure to the West Indies. Scott operated a shoppe in the Canongate District near St. John's Cross to the foot of St. Mary's Wynd. Dated 23 August 1758. [NAS, GD132/395].

- 4 yards scarlet and white tartan [presumably for the diamond pattern leg hose]
- ¾ yards superfine scarlet cloth
- 4 yards tristian

- 4½ yards tartan for phealbeg [possibly Murray of Atholl tartan]
- 2 yards broad linen for drawers
- Bonet 

- Ribbons, cockade

- Black feathers
- 1 pair broad rib'd silk hose

Additionally, the lieutenant discharged an account to Jean Murray, merchant in Blair [Atholl], for tartan, ribbons for cockades, etc. Dated 27 March 1759. [NRS, GD132/397].

July 30, 1758
- 4 yd fine Tartan
- 2 yd best red & white tartan
- 3 yd garters
- 3½ fine tartan
- 2 yd Ribban for Cockads
- 3 oz thread

Aug 2.
- 11 yd tartan
- 4 yd Ribban for Cockads
- 1oz thread
- 3½ yd tartan
- 1 oz thread
- 4 yd fine tartan
- 9 yd tartan
- 4 yd fine Ditto
- 8 yd Ribban
- 1oz thread
- 1 yd fine red & white tartan
- 6 yd tartan
- 2½ Broad black Ribban
- 3 yd fine garter
- 19 yd Ribban for Cockads
- 2¼ fine tartan red & white
- 3 yds Coarse Ditto
- 5½ of Linnen
- ¼ of Cambrick
- 2 oz thread
- 2 quare post paper
- ½ Pound of Candy Bread
- 6 yd Ribban

Sep. 6th.
- 3½ yds tartan
- ¼ p gun powder
- 15 yd Ribban
- 4 yds fine tartan
- 4 yd Ditto
- 3 yd Broad black Ribban
- 2 yd Ditto
- ½ gun powder
- 2¼ Cambrick
- 3 yds Broad black Ribban
- 3 yds Red Ribban
- 6 yds gartar

Oct. 2.
- 3 yds fine Cambrick
- ¾ tartan red & white
- 6 yds red & bleu [?] Ribban
- 4½ best black Ribban
- ? Pound Rasons & Almonds

Blair, March 27, 1759
Bill for £11. 2. 0½
Recived the above in full of all Demands Preseding this Debt
[signed] Jean Murray

77th Foot
Ensign Alexander Grant purchased the following uniform components from Peter Leitch, an Edinburgh merchant and tailor. Dated 24 January 1757. [NRS, GD248/86/3].

A Regimental Coat & Waistcoat Lac'd & Loop'd
- 1-5/8 yd. Scarlet Cloth
- Green cloth for Lapels & cuffs
- White [cloth for] the Waistcoat
- 4 yds White Shalloon
- 3 doz. Silver Buttons [on] Ivory Moulds
- 1½ doz. Small [silver buttons]
- Body Lining
- A Velvet Collar
- 3½ yds. Silver Lace
- Silk Twist Buckrum & Stays

A Regimental Frock & Waistcoat Lac'd
- 2-9/16 yds. Scarlet Cloth
- Green Cloth for Lapels & Cuffs
- 4½ yds. fine Shalloon
- Dimoty body Lining
- Silk Twist & Stays
- 3 doz. Silver Buttons on Ivory Moulds
- 1½ doz. Small [silver buttons]
- Velvet Collar
- 15¾ yds. Silver Binding

A Pair Scarlet Cloth Breeches
- For the Outside
- Silver Garters
- Making pockets Lining Silk
- Twist & Stays

Notes:

An excerpt from the book entitled, The Red & White Book of Menzies suggests the following: "The hose of the 42d Black Watch were of Clan Menzies tartan, 'red & white' check, worn in compliment of the Menzies originators." The diamond pattern leg hose was usually a red and white check which was called cath dath (pr: kaa dah) - war pattern.

James Scott and fellow Edinburgh merchant Archibald Hart are both mentioned in correspondence discussing a dispute over clothing for Montgomery's 1st Highland Battalion. Acting military agent John Calcraft to intercede. [NRAS771/Bundle 331].

A list of accoutrements issued to the men of the 78th Regiment can be found here.

It's worth mentioning, since the original publishing of this article, that new information has been uncovered, strongly suggesting the 78th Foot wore the same tartan as Lord Loudoun's 64th Foot. See our FAQ page for full details.

The article was last updated 22 August 2021.

Sources:

"Army Clothiers Petition." Received by The Lords Commissioners of his Majesty's Treasury, March 1763, London, UK. TNA, T1/424/412-413.

Calcraft, John. Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot, c. 1757. James Grant of Ballindalloch papers, 1740-1819, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.

Calcraft, John. Discussion regarding the death of Galfridus Mann was extracted from a letter to Earl of Loudoun dated 7 Jan. 1757, contained in Vol. 1, Register of private letters of J[ohn] C[alcraft], Army Agent, to the officers in the army and others; 24 Oct. 1756 to 18 Jan. 1765; British Library (Western Manuscripts); Add. MS 17493.

A State of Clothing for a Highland Regiment at first rising, 1757. James Grant of Ballindalloch papers, 1740-1819, Library of Congress.

“British Linen Bank.” Lloyds Banking Group. www.lloydsbankinggroup.com/Our-Group/our-heritage/our-history/bank-of-scotland/british-linen-bank/. [Accessed 10 January 2019]. 

Menzies, D. P. The 'Red and White' Book of Menzies: The History of Clan Menzies and It's Chiefs. Glasgow, 1894.

Richards, Frederick B. The Black Watch at Ticonderoga. Fort Ticonderoga Museum Library, 1920. Lt. John Robertson to the West Indies.

Durie, Alastair J. The British Linen Company, 1745-1775. Scottish History Society, 1996. Internal company letter written to William Tod, 10 April 1755.

“Ancient Highland Dress.” Ancient Highland Dress: The Highlander Leg Hose | Scottish Tartans Authority, www.tartansauthority.com/highland-dress/ancient/. [Accessed 10 January 2019].

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019. 

Letter from Colonel Simon Fraser, 2d Highland Battalion, to General Forbes, Feb. 25, 1758

Dear Sir

I hope you are Satisfied before now that I am not so much to blame as you Imagin'd with regard to the Returns but to prevent a poſsibility of mistake I send inclosed the Return for this Month, & have sent one also by this bearer to Genl. Webb.

The 35th, 44th, & 48th have kept the vests the drafts from our Regt. had on, the reason assigned is that those Regts. have no vests to give them, however that be, I fancy you will think it unreasonable that so many Men of our Regiment shoud go about without vests, while those Regts. wear the vests bought for our Men and paid for by me - the original price will not be an equivalent, because if those vests are not return'd, I must buy new ones at a leas'd rate than those cost at home, & yet perhaps those Regts. may grudge paying the Reginal price; I beg you may be so good to Advise me what I shoud do in this Matter, which I have mention'd to Genl. Webb, but without making any demand.

Serjt. Fraser was tried for the death of Corporal McKeye by the Superior Court yesterday, the indictment was laid for Murder, of which the Jury brought him in not guilty & the Court acquitted & dismissed him; I must do them the Justice to say that the Court & Jury behav'd with such moderation decency & propriety as Surprized me. The Colony of Connecticut & the 2d Highland Battalion are hand & glove & we are the only old countrymen they believe capable of performing great exploits, not but they hold themselves as the great Warriors, & suffer us only to follow longo intervallo.

     
My Lord preſs'd last Sunday in great health - your warm room was ready, but I own I was not sorry you did not apear for such a jaunt in rich weather coud hardly be Salutary.

    
                                                                                I am with great regard

                                                                                Dear Sir

                                                                                Your most obedt. & most 

                                                                                humble Servant

                                                    
                                                                                S. Fraser

Cover sheet:
Stratford Febry 25th 1758

Source:

Col. Simon Fraser, "Letter of Col. Simon Fraser to Colonel Forbes, Adjutant General, at His House in the Broadway or at the Fort, New York." NAS, GD45-2-29, pp. 18-19. 

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2017.

Accoutrements of the 78th Regiment of Foot, May 1758

This author has discovered an accounting ledger among the personal papers of Major James Clephane, Colonel Fraser’s second in command, dated May 1758. The ledger's purpose was for tracking expenses for each soldier in his company, including accoutrements issued and the monthly pay received. Considering the date of the ledger and the items listed, we believe these to be of initial government issue and part of a private soldier's kit he would have carried.

Since the original publishing of this article, new information has been uncovered strongly suggesting the 78th Foot wore the same tartan as Lord Loudoun's 64th Foot. See our FAQ page for full details.

Clothing & Accoutrements

1. 1 - Pair Shoes

2. 1 - Napsack

3. 1 - Haversack

4. 1 - Cocade

5. 1 - Pair Garters & 1 Sett Buckles

6. 1 - Kilt & Small Belt 

7. 2 - Cheq’d Shirt 

8. 1 - Turn Key Screw, Brush & Wire 

9. Proportion of a Cooks Frock 

10. Leather Frock

The major's sister Betty Clephane (wife of the chief of Clan Rose), discussed some of these items in a 1757 letter to her brother John, updating him on the recruiting efforts taking place: "We are already in such order, that we have our men received everyday with a stick on his shoulder and a good sack on his back, and a philibeg about his loup." Her jubilant thoughts expressly conveyed women were in fact involved in the raising of the 78th Regiment.

Notes: 

1. One new pair of shoes issued every six months at a cost of 3s 4p.

3. Multiple men in the Major Clephane's Company are recorded as having received two haversacks; one prior to departing Kilraick, Inverness for North America, the second while en route at Cork, Ireland.
6. Some accounts lists small belt as pistle belt.
7. Issued by Major Clephane.
8. Used in maintaining and repairing the firelocks.
9. Each soldier was charged proportionally.
10. Only one soldier charged for this item; quite possibly the company blacksmith.

Newspaper Editorial 

The Public Advertiser Newspaper
Thursday, February 3, 1757
Glasgow, Jan. 24. On Wednesday an Order was received from London, to provide 2400 pairs of shoes and also Shoulder-Belts for the two Highland Regiments now raising.

Order Book Entry
Saturday, 11 May 1762

"...Every soldier to be provided with a Brush weir, worm stopper, Turn key screw & rag for his arms, a hammer Stale [?] & flint case of proper Leather never to be taken off except when under arms, or on duty, 4 good shirts & stocks, one night cape, an Ivory & horn come for the hair, Black ball & Shoe Brushes, the men for guard allways to be well sheav'd have Clean shirts their hair ty'd behind & Clubb'd. Their arms very clean shoulder belts & Cartridge Boxes well Blacked, & shoulder Belt Buckles Brisk, every soldier whether he is on duty or not to have his face hands & knees well wash'd his hair well com'd cut short on the top of his head & his locks short, his Bonnet proper so as to reach his Brues before, & as high as possible behind with the Cockard fix'd so as the haf of it may stand upright above the Bonnet, his plaid never to be worn but kelted, the fillibeg or little kelt to be allways worn in summer or harvest except when upon duty."

See the article entitled, Clothing for the Highland Regiments, 1757, for a discussion on regimental clothing, including the 42nd, 77th and 78th Regiment of Foot.

Sources:

Major James Clephane, "Military Accounts at Halifax, 1758." NAS, GD125-34-5.

Captain John Nairne, "Order Books, 1762." LAC, R5991-0-3-E, MG23-GIII 23.

Betty Clephane, "Letter to 'Dear Brother', 1757." NAS, GD125-22-2, pp. 5-7.

© Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2018.

Last updated 22 August 2021.