In Favor of the Government Sett

An 18th-century civilian clothier in London meticulously examines a selection of luxurious fabrics on a well-lit table in his bustling workshop. Dressed in a simple yet elegant ensemble of the era, the middle-aged man has a pair of spectacles perched on his nose to aid in his scrutiny. The table is adorned with bolts of velvet, silk, and fine wool in an array of rich colors, reflecting the high quality of his trade of many years. (Jeffrey Campbell, An Ounce of Thread, 2024. Artist's rendition created with Perchance AI Image Generator)

In Favor of the Government Sett

Over the years, there have been countless thoughts expressed regarding the specific sett worn as part of the uniform by Lieutenant Colonel Fraser’s men in North America while participating in the war, from 1757 to 1763. And the simple explanation for this is that, although the War Office, on 13 January 1757, ordered a General Board of Officers to inspect the clothing patterns to be worn, documentation outlining the results of any inspection occurring has never been uncovered. 

During the early formation of the battalion, we know of two separate occasions when the men were officially reviewed. The first inspection took place at Glasgow, Scotland, on 29 April 1757, by the Hon. Charles Hope-Weir, Muster Master-General of North Britain [Scots Magazine, Vol. XIX, p.259], and a second inspection occurred a few days later on 4 May, by Lieutenant Colonel Richard Webb and Lieutenant-Colonel Richard Worge [Beauclerk to Barrington, 6 May 1757, W.O. 1/613, p.115]. Additionally, the battalion was most likely reviewed at the Royal Military Barracks, Dublin, Ireland (now Collins Barracks), by the Earl of Rothes, on their march to Cork Harbour for embarkation, as it is documented he met with Colonel Montgomery's First Highland Battalion on 16 May 1757.

Our Findings

The following two contemporary newspaper extracts discuss Lord Loudoun's desire to reinforce his army in North America with an additional 5,000 troops. Formerly of the 64th Foot, Loudoun (Colonel John Campbell) was serving as commander in chief at the time.

Jackson's Oxford Journal

Saturday, November 27, 1756. Numb. 187.

London.

It is said that Lord Loudoun has desired a Reinforcement of 5000 Men at least, whom he recommends to be accoutred in the manner of the Highland Regiment.

It should be noted, originally titled Crawford's Highlanders or the Highland Regiment, the 42nd (Royal Highland) Regiment of Foot, numbered 43rd in the line, in 1748, then renumbered 42nd Foot in 1751, and was one of the first three Highland Regiments to fight in North America.

The Sussex Weekly Advertiser, or, Lewes Journal

Monday, November 29, 1756. No. 544.

London. Nov. 23.

The last Express from Lord Loudon contains no request of being Recalled, but he therein desires a Reinforcement of 5000 Men at least, which he recommends to be raised in the Highlands of Scotland, and to be accoutred in their Manner, the English Marching Regiments not being so capable of bearing the Fatigue of frequent Journeys in that Country; he also desires a Draught from the Train of Artillery, with some small travelling Cannon; which Request, we hear, is ordered to be complied with forthwith.

Separately, on 25 August 1757, Lieutenant Colonel Fraser, in a letter penned from Halifax Harbour to Lord Loudoun wrote: "...This much I will say for the Regt. that it is in every respect a Highland one & as we have the honor of wearing the livery of your Lords highland Regt. I have no doubt we shall resemble them in more respects when we are disciplined..." [LO 4310, Huntington Library, San Marino, CA.]

Wearing a Dark-coloured Plaid

As the only Highland regiment garrisoned in Halifax, Nova Scotia, in September 1757, were the men of Colonel Fraser's Regiment, from the journal of Captain John Knox, we find the following entry. 

21 September 1757: "...The reinforcement of Highlanders, mentioned before to have arrived lately at Halifax, consisted of two new-raised regiments; an unlucky accident lately happened to one of their private men, of which the following are particulars; a soldier of another regiment, who was a centinel detached from an advanced guard, seeing a man come out of the wood, with his hair hanging loose, and wrapped in a dark-coloured plaid, he challenged him repeatedly, and receiving no answer (the weather being hazy) he fired at him and killed him."  [The Publications of the Champlain Society: The Journal of Captain John Knox, Volume 1, pp.73-74]. 

Note: At 4 minutes, 16 seconds past 11 p.m. on the evening of September 20, the Moon entered the First Quarter phase, a time when present-day astronomers estimate it is only 1/11 bright as a full Moon. [Edinburgh Almanack For the Year M.DCC.LVII, Edinburgh, 1757, p.13].

Lord Beauclerk's Letters

We've uncovered two important letters pertaining to the plaids issued and worn by Lieutenant Colonels Fraser and Montgomery's men in 1757. Writing from Edinburgh to Lord Barrington of the War Office in London, Lord Beauclerk pens several key notes.

In this first letter, Beauclerk's admittance of contact with the clothing contractors strongly implies the making of clothes were an undertaking of the government, and supervised by Beauclerk himself. 

22 March 1757: "I wish the Cloaths and Arms from London, and the Plaid &c. making in this Country may be ready in time, which last I apprehend will be rather late [to Glasgow], tho' the Contractors promise all possible diligence." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 22 March 1757. Letter book of Lord George Beauclerk as Commander-in-Chief in Scotland, being copies of letters concerning military and administrative affairs in Scotland of Beuaclerk, the Viscount Barrington, the Earl of Holdernesse, the Earl of Ligonier, and others. National Library Scotland, p.47-48].

In Beauclerk's second letter, it is discussed that the two Highland battalions are still in need of 400 plaids, which are expected to arrive any day [to Glasgow] from Stirling. The two battalions are awaiting their final shipment of (most likely) government tartan.

19 April 1757: "By a Letter I this day received from Lieut Colonel Webb, there are about 90 of the best Men of each of the Highland Battalion who cannot arrive at Glasgow before the 23d Inst. occasioned as is said, by their having been in the Western Isles where they could not receive orders so as to be able to join sooner. This will retard the march of the First Battalion till the 25th following; especially as the same Letter bears that there are also wanting 400 Plaids which daily expected from Stirling." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 19 April 1757. TNA, W.O. 1/613, p.83-85].

In Summary

As historians, whichever side of the fence you may be on, our independent investigation into these key pieces of evidence brought together for the first time under one umbrella strongly suggests the wearing of the government sett. Considering the totality of the evidence, we believe Colonel Fraser and his men wore the same livery (jacket, bonnet, waistcoat, and tartan) as not only Loudoun's original 64th Foot, but the 42nd and 77th Regiments as well.

And while some historians are in favor of the patterns worn by the 42nd Regiment, others are hoping paperwork will one day appear in support Colonel Fraser's men wearing a red tartan. However, to date, we have not been able to locate any credible evidence to corroborate the latter.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2022.

Last updated 27 January 2023.