In our discussion entitled, Clothing for the Highland Regiments, 1757, the main emphasis of that conversation is centered around identifying not only the specific clothing articles worn by the three Scottish Regiments sent to North America, but also the army clothier(s) responsible for procuring the different uniform components for the troops And while it was discovered a gentleman named James Mann was contracted in 1759 to provide jackets to Colonel Fraser's Regiment, it is equally important to identify the suppliers for each of the additional uniform components, in order to get a better understanding of those involved with outfitting over 4000 soldiers for duty overseas.
William Sandeman
In a letter dated 21 January 1773, William Sandeman, a prominent linen manufacturer in Perth, Scotland, provided correspondence to the House of Commons indicating his operation at the height of the war consisted of 200 weaver looms, but by this time he was down to 30 in total. [Reports From Committees of the House of Commons. Vol. III].
In a letter dated 21 January 1773, William Sandeman, a prominent linen manufacturer in Perth, Scotland, provided correspondence to the House of Commons indicating his operation at the height of the war consisted of 200 weaver looms, but by this time he was down to 30 in total. [Reports From Committees of the House of Commons. Vol. III].
Contingent upon the premise only half his machinery (100 looms) was in operation at the time of furnishing plaids to the 42d Foot, in 1757, with each loom averaging a daily production of just five yards of cloth his business may have produced 3500 yards weekly. This output would ensure a regiment of 1000 men could be clothed in under four weeks based on 12 yards per plaid. Evidence suggests a smaller amount of material may have been supplied (four & one-half yards) for a philabeg.
Hector Turnbull, William Sandeman's bleacher and business partner, was a brother to George Turnbull (ensign in the Scots Brigade in Holland), who served alongside then-Captain James Clephane, who was later gazetted major in Colonel Fraser's Regiment. And while direct evidence suggesting the colonel sought the clothing services of the Sandeman has not been uncovered, their production capabilities and contributions to the war efforts should not go unnoticed.
Clothing Suppliers
Clothing Suppliers
1. Coats: shipped by Fisher & Pearse (1757); shipped by John Hankins (1759).
2. Shoes: shipped from Glasgow (1757); ordered by William Sandeman (1759).
3. Shoe buckles: shipped by Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck, London (1759).
4. Leg hose: shipped from Glasgow (1757); ordered by William Sandeman (1759).
5. Bonnets: shipped from Glasgow (1757); grenadier caps by Joseph Howell (1759).
6. Cockades
7. Plaids: provided by William Sandeman (1757).
8. Shirts: provided William Sandeman at Luncarty (1757).
9. Stockings
10. Garters
11. Kilting-belts
London army agents: John Calcraft (1757-58); Mr. Drummond* (1759-1763).
Colonel Archibald Montgomery's 77th Regiment
12. Coats
12a Silk sashes (1757).
13. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
14. Shoe buckles
15. Leg hose
16. Bonnets
17. Cockades
18. Plaids: plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
19. Shirts
20. Stockings
21. Garters: bought at Glasgow (1757).
22. Kilting-belts: soldiers [may have] provided their own during initial outfitting (1757).
13. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
14. Shoe buckles
15. Leg hose
16. Bonnets
17. Cockades
18. Plaids: plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
19. Shirts
20. Stockings
21. Garters: bought at Glasgow (1757).
22. Kilting-belts: soldiers [may have] provided their own during initial outfitting (1757).
22a Saint Andrew's Crosses (1757).
London army agent: John Calcraft (1757-1763); London clothing packer: Mr. [Thomas] Colborne, [Coleman-street] (1757).
Colonel Simon Fraser's 78th Regiment
23. Coats: shipped by James Mann at Westminster (1759).
24. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
25. Shoe buckles
26. Leg hose
27. Bonnets
28. Cockades
29. Plaids: some plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
30. Shirts
31. Stockings
32. Garters
33. Kilting-belts
London army agent: George Ross (1757-1763).
Notes:
Fisher & Pearse, Blackwell Hall factors, operated shop in Lothbury, Westminster, England. About June 1757 they shipped over 1000 coats, and various other items including thread, thimbles, corporal’s & piper’s knots, red feathers, etc., to Lord John Murray’s Regiment in North America. About April 1759 John Hawkins [sic: Hankins] was paid for cloth for the regimentals of the officers of the 13 companies £182.14.0, and Barrett & Co. for the lace £213.7.4; in November 1759, Edward Smith of Ludgate Hill, London, provided buff slings for the seven additional companies at a cost of £57.15.0. The package was insured for £500.0.0 and shipped for New York on board the Neptune transport, commanded by Captain Rose. [Cox & King's, Cox & Kings records 1686-1965. Lloyds Banking Group Archives (London). GB 386 A/56. "42nd Regiment Account Book, 1758-1767," Folio 50, p. 100. https://bit.ly/3CtLAyL].
2. Ibid., William Sandeman was paid £182.6.0 for 1200 pairs of shoes. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
3. Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck was paid £56.13.0 on 23 April 1759 for buckles and combs for the seven new companies. He was a tradesman and London clockmaker who introduced a brass alloy for imitation gold jewelry in 1732. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
4. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
5. "General Murray to Lt. John Grahme, Quartermaster, 42d Foot: Tartan, bonnets, and shoes to ship from Glasgow." 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); Grenadier caps: "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
13. “From Glasgow: An order was received from London, to provide 2400 pairs of shoes and also Shoulder-Belts for the two Highland Regiments now raising.” The Public Advertiser, 3 February 1757.
14. Agent John Calcraft writes: “Regimental buckles [for Colonel Montgomery’s 77th Foot] are got.” Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot, c. 1757. James Grant of Ballindalloch papers, 1740-1819, Library of Congress, Washington, DC.
23. Colonel Fraser’s coats (including lacing) was coordinated by James Mann, Woolen-draper, Strand, Westminster, UK. “Letter from William Fauquier to Lt.-Gen. Robt. Napier.” 18 December 1759. TNA, Clothing Board [Letters], WO 7/26.
24. See Note 13.
London army agent: John Calcraft (1757-1763); London clothing packer: Mr. [Thomas] Colborne, [Coleman-street] (1757).
Colonel Simon Fraser's 78th Regiment
23. Coats: shipped by James Mann at Westminster (1759).
24. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
25. Shoe buckles
26. Leg hose
27. Bonnets
28. Cockades
29. Plaids: some plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
30. Shirts
31. Stockings
32. Garters
33. Kilting-belts
London army agent: George Ross (1757-1763).
Notes:
In a letter dated 12 July 1757, William Sandeman received an order for clothing the three additional companies of the 42nd Regiment of Foot. [John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57)].
*Hon. Henry Drummond, of Charing Cross, London, and The Grange, Hants became army agent in 1759 for the 42d and 46th Foot (commanded by his Murray relatives). In 1765 he entered into a partnership with Richard Cox (Cox & Co.) and, the firm having acquired a number of John Calcraft's agencies, by 1771 had 18 regiments on their books. [Namier & Brooke. The House of Commons, 1754-1790, Vol. 1].
On 29 March 1766, the British Government reimbursed Colonel Fraser £1025.2.6 to replace the clothing of the 78th Battalion of Foot, which was taken on 16 May 1760 by Le Machault, a French hired frigate. [Journals of the House of Commons. Vol. 31].
*Hon. Henry Drummond, of Charing Cross, London, and The Grange, Hants became army agent in 1759 for the 42d and 46th Foot (commanded by his Murray relatives). In 1765 he entered into a partnership with Richard Cox (Cox & Co.) and, the firm having acquired a number of John Calcraft's agencies, by 1771 had 18 regiments on their books. [Namier & Brooke. The House of Commons, 1754-1790, Vol. 1].
On 29 March 1766, the British Government reimbursed Colonel Fraser £1025.2.6 to replace the clothing of the 78th Battalion of Foot, which was taken on 16 May 1760 by Le Machault, a French hired frigate. [Journals of the House of Commons. Vol. 31].
Sources:
1. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
Fisher & Pearse, Blackwell Hall factors, operated shop in Lothbury, Westminster, England. About June 1757 they shipped over 1000 coats, and various other items including thread, thimbles, corporal’s & piper’s knots, red feathers, etc., to Lord John Murray’s Regiment in North America. About April 1759 John Hawkins [sic: Hankins] was paid for cloth for the regimentals of the officers of the 13 companies £182.14.0, and Barrett & Co. for the lace £213.7.4; in November 1759, Edward Smith of Ludgate Hill, London, provided buff slings for the seven additional companies at a cost of £57.15.0. The package was insured for £500.0.0 and shipped for New York on board the Neptune transport, commanded by Captain Rose. [Cox & King's, Cox & Kings records 1686-1965. Lloyds Banking Group Archives (London). GB 386 A/56. "42nd Regiment Account Book, 1758-1767," Folio 50, p. 100. https://bit.ly/3CtLAyL].
2. Ibid., William Sandeman was paid £182.6.0 for 1200 pairs of shoes. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
3. Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck was paid £56.13.0 on 23 April 1759 for buckles and combs for the seven new companies. He was a tradesman and London clockmaker who introduced a brass alloy for imitation gold jewelry in 1732. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
4. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
5. "General Murray to Lt. John Grahme, Quartermaster, 42d Foot: Tartan, bonnets, and shoes to ship from Glasgow." 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); Grenadier caps: "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.
7. See Note 1.
8. "Letter to Mr. William Sandeman merchant at Perth [Scotland], with order for cloathing the 3 additional companies." 12 July 1757. Ibid.
8. "Letter to Mr. William Sandeman merchant at Perth [Scotland], with order for cloathing the 3 additional companies." 12 July 1757. Ibid.
12. Purchased 20 silk sashes (presumably for the 20 initial lieutenants). TNA, WO 34/75, p.114.
13. “From Glasgow: An order was received from London, to provide 2400 pairs of shoes and also Shoulder-Belts for the two Highland Regiments now raising.” The Public Advertiser, 3 February 1757.
14. Agent John Calcraft writes: “Regimental buckles [for Colonel Montgomery’s 77th Foot] are got.” Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot, c. 1757. James Grant of Ballindalloch papers, 1740-1819, Library of Congress, Washington, DC.
18. 22 March 1757: "I wish the Cloaths and Arms from London, and the Plaid &c. making in this Country may be ready in time, which last I apprehend will be rather late [to Glasgow], tho' the Contractors promise all possible diligence." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 22 March 1757].
In Beauclerk's second letter dated 19 April 1757, he discussed with Barrington that the two Highland battalions are still in need of 400 plaids, which are "daily expected [to Glasgow] from Stirling." The two battalions are awaiting their final shipment of (most likely) government tartan. Letter book of Lord George Beauclerk as Commander-in-Chief in Scotland, being copies of letters concerning military and administrative affairs in Scotland of Beauclerk, the Viscount Barrington, the Earl of Holdernesse, the Earl of Ligonier, and others. National Library Scotland, p.47-48].
21. Ibid., “Regimental garters to be bought at Glasgow.”
22. Ibid., “Belts for kelting [sic, kilting] men provide.”
22a An October 1757 entry in the regimental purchase ledger indicates a payment of £32.0.0 for 40 Saint Andrew's Crosses (presumably for the 40 initial officers). TNA, WO 34/75, p.114.
23. Colonel Fraser’s coats (including lacing) was coordinated by James Mann, Woolen-draper, Strand, Westminster, UK. “Letter from William Fauquier to Lt.-Gen. Robt. Napier.” 18 December 1759. TNA, Clothing Board [Letters], WO 7/26.
24. See Note 13.
29. See Note 18.
Last updated 13 September 2023.
© Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.
Last updated 13 September 2023.
© Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.
0 comments:
Post a Comment