Clothing Suppliers to the Highland Regiments, 1757

In our discussion entitled, Clothing for the Highland Regiments, 1757, the main emphasis of that conversation is centered around identifying not only the specific clothing articles worn by the three Scottish Regiments sent to North America, but also the army clothier(s) responsible for procuring the different uniform components for the troops  And while it was discovered a gentleman named James Mann was contracted in 1759 to provide jackets to Colonel Fraser's Regiment, it is equally important to identify the suppliers for each of the additional uniform components, in order to get a better understanding of those involved with outfitting over 4000 soldiers for duty overseas.

William Sandeman
In a letter dated 21 January 1773, William Sandeman, a prominent linen manufacturer in Perth, Scotland, provided correspondence to the House of Commons indicating his operation at the height of the war consisted of 200 weaver looms, but by this time he was down to 30 in total. [Reports From Committees of the House of Commons. Vol. III].

Contingent upon the premise only half his machinery (100 looms) was in operation at the time of furnishing plaids to the 42d Foot, in 1757, with each loom averaging a daily production of just five yards of cloth his business may have produced 3500 yards weekly. This output would ensure a regiment of 1000 men could be clothed in under four weeks based on 12 yards per plaid. Evidence suggests a smaller amount of material may have been supplied (four & one-half yards) for a philabeg.

Hector Turnbull, William Sandeman's bleacher and business partner, was a brother to George Turnbull (ensign in the Scots Brigade in Holland), who served alongside then-Captain James Clephane, who was later gazetted major in Colonel Fraser's Regiment. And while direct evidence suggesting the colonel sought the clothing services of the Sandeman has not been uncovered, their production capabilities and contributions to the war efforts should not go unnoticed.

Clothing Suppliers

Lord John Murray's 42nd Regiment
1. Coats: shipped by Fisher & Pearse (1757); shipped by John Hankins (1759).
2. Shoes: shipped from Glasgow (1757); ordered by William Sandeman (1759).
3. Shoe buckles: shipped by Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck, London (1759).
4. Leg hose: shipped from Glasgow (1757); ordered by William Sandeman (1759).
5. Bonnets: shipped from Glasgow (1757); grenadier caps by Joseph Howell (1759).
6. Cockades
7. Plaids: provided by William Sandeman (1757).
8. Shirts: provided William Sandeman at Luncarty (1757).
9. Stockings
10. Garters
11. Kilting-belts

London army agents: John Calcraft (1757-58); Mr. Drummond* (1759-1763).

Colonel Archibald Montgomery's 77th Regiment
12. Coats

12a Silk sashes (1757).
13. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
14. Shoe buckles
15. Leg hose
16. Bonnets
17. Cockades
18. Plaids: plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
19. Shirts
20. Stockings
21. Garters: bought at Glasgow (1757).
22. Kilting-belts: soldiers [may have] provided their own during initial outfitting (1757).

22a Saint Andrew's Crosses (1757).

London army agent: John Calcraft (1757-1763); London clothing packer: Mr. [Thomas] Colborne, [Coleman-street] (1757).

Colonel Simon Fraser's 78th Regiment 
23. Coats: shipped by James Mann at Westminster (1759).
24. Shoes: order received at Glasgow (1757).
25. Shoe buckles
26. Leg hose
27. Bonnets
28. Cockades
29. Plaids: some plaids arrived to Glasgow from Stirling (1757).
30. Shirts
31. Stockings
32. Garters
33. Kilting-belts

London army agent: George Ross (1757-1763).

Notes:

In a letter dated 12 July 1757, William Sandeman received an order for clothing the three additional companies of the 42nd Regiment of Foot. [John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57)].

*Hon. Henry Drummond, of Charing Cross, London, and The Grange, Hants became army agent in 1759 for the 42d and 46th Foot (commanded by his Murray relatives). In 1765 he entered into a partnership with Richard Cox (Cox & Co.) and, the firm having acquired a number of John Calcraft's agencies, by 1771 had 18 regiments on their books. [Namier & Brooke. The House of Commons, 1754-1790, Vol. 1].

On 29 March 1766, the British Government reimbursed Colonel Fraser £1025.2.6 to replace the clothing of the 78th Battalion of Foot, which was taken on 16 May 1760 by Le Machault, a French hired frigate. [Journals of the House of Commons. Vol. 31].

Sources:

1. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

Fisher & Pearse, Blackwell Hall factors, operated shop in Lothbury, Westminster, England. About June 1757 they shipped over 1000 coats, and various other items including thread, thimbles, corporal’s & piper’s knots, red feathers, etc., to Lord John Murray’s Regiment in North America. About April 1759 John Hawkins [sic: Hankins] was paid for cloth for the regimentals of the officers of the 13 companies £182.14.0, and Barrett & Co. for the lace £213.7.4; in November 1759, Edward Smith of Ludgate Hill, London, provided buff slings for the seven additional companies at a cost of £57.15.0. The package was insured for £500.0.0 and shipped for New York on board the Neptune transport, commanded by Captain Rose. [Cox & King's, Cox & Kings records 1686-1965. Lloyds Banking Group Archives (London). GB 386 A/56. "42nd Regiment Account Book, 1758-1767," Folio 50, p. 100. https://bit.ly/3CtLAyL].

2. Ibid., William Sandeman was paid £182.6.0 for 1200 pairs of shoes. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

3. Mr. [Christopher] Pinchbeck was paid £56.13.0 on 23 April 1759 for buckles and combs for the seven new companies. He was a tradesman and London clockmaker who introduced a brass alloy for imitation gold jewelry in 1732. "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

4. “Letter from Major General Lord John Murray to Lieutenant Colonel Francis Grant, with clothing invoice.” London, 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

5. "General Murray to Lt. John Grahme, Quartermaster, 42d Foot: Tartan, bonnets, and shoes to ship from Glasgow." 11 June 1757. John Rylands University, Manchester University; Bagshawe Muniments, I-XI. Correspondence and Papers, V. Lord John Murray (d.1787) and his wife Mary, nee Dalton (d. 1765), 5/1/1-460. Correspondence, 1-408. Bound manuscript volume of copies of letters and regimental orders concerning the 42nd or Royal Highland Regiment (1756-57); Grenadier caps: "A Record of the Black Watch." 2014.188 1758-1763, Black Watch ledger information. R1 B9 S2 Box.1, p. 1-5. Black Watch Museum, Perth, n.d.

7. See Note 1.

8. "Letter to Mr. William Sandeman merchant at Perth [Scotland], with order for cloathing the 3 additional companies." 12 July 1757. Ibid.

12. Purchased 20 silk sashes (presumably for the 20 initial lieutenants). TNA, WO 34/75, p.114.

13. “From Glasgow: An order was received from London, to provide 2400 pairs of shoes and also Shoulder-Belts for the two Highland Regiments now raising.” The Public Advertiser, 3 February 1757.

14. Agent John Calcraft writes: “Regimental buckles [for Colonel Montgomery’s 77th Foot] are got.” Regulation of Cloathing for a Highland Regt. of Foot, c. 1757. James Grant of Ballindalloch papers, 1740-1819, Library of Congress, Washington, DC.

18. 22 March 1757: "I wish the Cloaths and Arms from London, and the Plaid &c. making in this Country may be ready in time, which last I apprehend will be rather late [to Glasgow], tho' the Contractors promise all possible diligence." [Beauclerk to Barrington, Edinburgh, 22 March 1757]. 

In Beauclerk's second letter dated 19 April 1757, he discussed with Barrington that the two Highland battalions are still in need of 400 plaids, which are "daily expected [to Glasgow] from Stirling." The two battalions are awaiting their final shipment of (most likely) government tartan. Letter book of Lord George Beauclerk as Commander-in-Chief in Scotland, being copies of letters concerning military and administrative affairs in Scotland of Beauclerk, the Viscount Barrington, the Earl of Holdernesse, the Earl of Ligonier, and others. National Library Scotland, p.47-48]. 

21. Ibid., “Regimental garters to be bought at Glasgow.” 

22. Ibid., “Belts for kelting [sic, kilting] men provide.”

22a An October 1757 entry in the regimental purchase ledger indicates a payment of £32.0.0 for 40 Saint Andrew's Crosses (presumably for the 40 initial officers). TNA, WO 34/75, p.114.

23. Colonel Fraser’s coats (including lacing) was coordinated by James Mann, Woolen-draper, Strand, Westminster, UK. “Letter from William Fauquier to Lt.-Gen. Robt. Napier.” 18 December 1759. TNA, Clothing Board [Letters], WO 7/26.

24. See Note 13.

29. See Note 18.

Last updated 13 September 2023.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.

78th Regiment at Isle of Orleans

General James Wolfe, ill with dysentery and suffering from rheumatism, commanded the expedition to capture the city of Quebec. By late June 1759, his entire convoy had passed up the St. Lawrence River and had reached the Island of Orleans, which lay opposite Quebec along the river. At the end of that month, he and his brigadiers agreed on a plan to land troops across the river a short distance upstream and to the west of Quebec. The resulting attack, which involved scaling the cliffs only one mile from the city, was carried out on September 12 and surprised the French on the fields of the Plains of Abraham.

Writing from camp at Montmorency one month prior to the attack, Wolfe discusses with Colonel Monckton the positioning of Fraser's 78th Highlanders into the Isle of Orleans.

Dear Sir

        Two divisions of the six of Fraser's Regt. that are order'd to be in readyness to move are to pass over into the Isle of Orleans tomorrow, where Mr. Leslie will canton them - Neither Officers nor Soldiers will want Tents: what bedding & conveniences the Officers may chuse to take wth. them, shall be conveyed from the Point of Levy, to the Boscawen Brig - which is now at an anchor here & under orders to fall down this channel, this arriv'd Vessel, will lay near the Highlanders & move up or down as they move - a Flat bottom'd Boat will be at the Point of Levy about 8 tomorrow morning to receive, the little Baggage, which shou'd be carried; the Commanding Officer, after his People are canton'd in the Isle of Orleans, will come over to Genl. Wolfe for his instructions.

I have the honour to be
Dr. Sir
your faithfull &
Obedient Servant
Jam: Wolfe

Montmorency

14th Augt: 1759

P.S.

Provisions are put into the Brig - nevertheless, the Highlanders, shou'd take for 3 days wth. them.

Sources:

Encyclopedia Britannica. James Wolfe, British General. www.britannica.com/biography/James-Wolfe

Wolfe, James. Letter to Colonel Robert Monckton, August 14, 1759. Northcliffe Collection: Series 1: Robert Monckton Papers: C-368. Public Archives Canada.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019. 

Request for the 78th Regiment to Disband in Scotland

To the Rt. Hon. Welbore Ellis, Secretary at War.

Memorial of the Nobility, Gentry, Freeholders and others in the Northern and Highland Counties of Scotland, Shewith

That in 1759 it having been thought expedient to raise under the command of Colonels Montgomery and Fraser two Highland Battalions (then Nos. 62nd & 63rd of the Army) for immediate service, your memorialists so effectually concurred in this measure of Government that in about two months after the Regiments were not only compleated and reviewed, but also embarked for America, where they have been ever since on constant service, and with the like expedition four additional Companys to each of these two Regiments were soon after raised and went on service.

That in the course of the present war, these parts have been further drained of men by the whole following additional Levys, viz., the Second Battalion to the 42nd, the 87th, 88th, 89th, & 100th Regiments, and by several Highland and Independent Companys drafted into other Regiments : and thro' the uncommon activity of last war, and the honorable share the Highlanders had every where in it, their numbers are reduced to almost the Tenth man of these who originally left the Country.

That your Memorialists have thereby been put to great distress for want of hands to labour the ground, all the young men being there on service and on the very old and children left : whilst the war lasted your Memorialists though it their Duty to give up their own private Conveniency for the good of the Publick, and for that purpose they cheerfully concurred in making the several Levys order'd, But now that the war is over, and that their people have had the honour to contribute a share (and not an inconsiderable one) in the success of it, and as Montgomery & Fraser's Regiments (now changed from their original numbers 62nd and 63rd to 77th and 78th) are to be reduced, your Memorialists humbly hope that His Majestys will have the goodness to order the remains of these Gallant men to be sent home to repeople the Country, and Breed a Race of Soldiers who may emulate the actions of their Fathers in another War. And as the Country really wants them, and as the service of these poor men seems to merit this mark of publick attention, which His Majesty has already been graciously pleased to show the 87th and 88th Regiments now returned from Germany.

Your Memorialists pray you to represent the case of their parts of the Country and of Colonels Montgomery and Fraser's Regiments to His Majesty, that His Majesty be graciously pleased to order these Regiments to be sent home and Disbanded in Scotland.

Source:

"Memorial to the Rt. Hon. Welbore Ellis, Secretary at War, of the nobility, gentry freeholders, and others in the northern and highland counties of Scotland, asking that the regiments of Colonel Montgomery and Colonel Fraser be disbanded in Scotland." 1763. NAS GD87-1-95. Printed in T.G.S.I., vol. XXIV, 1904-07.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.

Payroll Account of Corporal Alexander Fraser

Much like today, accounting books were used in the eighteenth century for documenting military pay and other related expenses accrued over periods of time. The payroll account of Corporal Alexander Fraser, 78th Regiment, covers the period of July 5, 1757, through April 24, 1758. 

Note: Category headers and bracketed script have been added for clarification and do not appear in the original document. Additionally, it would not be uncommon to discover accounting errors as these were gentlemen who created inaccuracies the same as you and I.

[Page 8 - Corporal Alexander Fraser]

Income

To 9 Weeks arrears & Pay Due from y'e. 5th July to y'e. 5th Sepr.

     £: 1. 10. 9

To 5 Weeks arrears of Pay Due from y'e. 5th Septr. to 10th Octr.

     £: 0. 8. 4

To 3 Weeks arrears @ 5p week

     £: 0. 1. 3

To 6 Weeks Pay & arrears Due from y'e. 17th Oct'r. to y'e. 28th Nov'r. 1757

     £: 1. 0. 6

To 21 Weeks arrears of Pay Due from y'e. 28th Nov'r. 1757 to y'e. 24th Apr'l. 1758

     £: 1. 16. 1½

[Total]  £: 4. 11. 11½

Expenses

To 1 Pair Shoes & 1 Nap sack

     £: 0. 6. 6

To 1 Haversacks & 1 Cocade

     £: 0. 1. 8

To 1 Pair Garters & 1 Sett buckles

     £: 0. 1. 4

To 1 Kilt & 1 Small belt

     £: 0. 1. 4

To 1 Turn Key Screw brush & wire

     £: 0. 0. 9

To Provisions at Glasgow

     £: 0. 4. 8

To Spruce beer at Halifax

     £: 0. 2. 8

To 2 Cheqd. Shirts

     £: 0. 7. 0

To 10 Months Stops for @ 1p month

     £: 0. 0. 10

To 7 D'o D'o. for y'e. Barber @ 2p D’o.

     £: 0. 1. 2

To yr. Proportion of a Cook's Frock

£: 0. 0. 8

To Cash given at Boston & Halifax

     £: 0. 18. 8

  [Total]  £: 2. 7. 3

£: 0. 18. 8

£: 3. 5. 11

 [Income minus Expenses equals Cash Paid]

To Cash Paid as Bala'ce of Above

       £: 1. 9. ½

  £: 4. 14. ½

Halifax 7th May 1758 Rec'd. y'e. above Bala'ce. in full of my Pay & arrears of Pay from y'e. Date of my Attestation to y'e. 24th Apr. Last as witness of my hand.     [signed] Alexr. Fraser

Source:

Payroll Account of Alexander Fraser, 78th Regiment of Foot, 1758. MS NAS GD125-34-5, pp. 20-21, Military Account Book at Halifax. National Archives Scotland, n.p.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, Fraser's 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.

Letter to Major James Clephane at New York, 1759

Dear Sir

I was extremely sorry to Hear by Capt. Crawford, that you have been in a bad State of Health for Sometime past, I hope by this time you have got the Better of your Illness which will give you one great Satisfaction; as you Intend to sell out I wish you a good market & a safe Return to your native country. By Letters from England in the spring I was informed of your Brother the Doctor’s Death which is not only a great loss to all His Relations, but even to His country in general, as he Had the Honour to be universally usefull in the Public Station he fill’d. Had he lived I am very Certain he would have done something for me on my return to England, having received all the assistance from him in his power, the last time I was at London, I am still first mate of the Prcr. Of Orange, and shall remain this winter at Halifase, which is unlucky for me as I am afraid we shall have a Peace soon, In this case I belive will be my best way to go into the East India Service, but If the war continues, a Recommendation to any of your friends in London may be of use to me. Our ship was one that went on the expedition against Quebec the Particulars of which Capt. Crawford can give you a Better account of that as he was on the spot; I shall only observe that both fleet and army Did their Duty like true Sons of Britton, and it was a common saying all over the fleet that the Highlanders behaved like angels. If you’ll please to write one before you set out for England and give me a direction to ….. ….. you’ll greatly oblidge.

                                               
Dear Sir

Your affectionate cousin & Humble Servt.

Jo: Clephane

Prce. of Orange in Halifase Harbour

          Novr. ye. 10^th 1759

Note: Letter to Major James Clephane at New York, from his cousin John Clephane, mate of the Prince of Orange, discussing Clephane's impending retirement due to health concerns and wishing him a safe return home. Also, discussing the death of Clephane's brother, Doctor Clephane, and his ship's participation in the expedition to Quebec, where 'the Highlanders behaved like angels.'

Source:

Clephane, John. Letter to Major James Clephane at New York, 1759. GD125/22/17/29. National Archives Scotland.

©  Jeffrey Campbell, 78th Regiment of Foot, 2019.